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The ‘Ode to Milan’ High Jewelry collection is divided into 4 chapters. Like a diamond, Pomellato has chosen various facets of the city to reflect its different sides. Inspired by and named according to a range of themes, the jewels are designed to embody the urban drama of Milan’s skyscrapers, the power of its medieval architecture, the creativity of La Scala, or the majesty of its Duomo.
The Vertical Landscapes chapter evokes the unconventional beauty of Milan’s 21st c. architecture and skyscrapers, including the ground-breaking Torre Velasca and the colorful façades of Gio Ponti’s buildings.
Linear in structure, the Skyline necklace assembles 128 glorious, rare spinels. Like a Milanese sunset framed by vertical high-rises, its extraordinary stream of color drapes down the neck. The asymmetric necklace features luminous, bezel-set, cushion-cut spinels ranging from classic red to the lesser-known hues of warm scarlet, dusky pink, light mauve, sky blue and smoky grey.
The necklace is soft and sensual to the touch, with a masterfully handcrafted structure and a back-section of highly mobile gate-link chains, ending in rose-gold bars set with diamond pavé.
To complete the parure, a matching pair of Skyline earrings shimmer with 12 spinels, their color gently fading from glowing red to light purple. Handcrafted by the artisans at Casa Pomellato in Milan, each colored gemstone has been meticulously selected, cut and set in-house.
With a refined color composition, the spinels’ design is a perfect reflection of Milanese sophistication.
Three magnificent emerald-cut indicolites star in the Giardini Verticali Princess-style necklace, crafted with outsized rose-gold links that are hand-encrusted with diamonds.
With the distinctive petrol-green shade of these indicolites, Pomellato recalls the varieties of velvet that are often seen in Milan’s most elegant interiors.
To pair, the dazzling Giardini Verticali earrings cascade with 52 magnetic green tourmalines and 6 violet-blue tanzanites.
Unconventional in its creative soul, Pomellato artisans chose to reverse-set the emerald-cut stones in green titanium, creating a spectacular mosaic of movement, color, and texture. This effect is reminiscent of one of Gió Ponti’s hypnotic building façade.
Pomellato artisans pride themselves on their ability to choose, cut and set gemstones in a way that best expresses, sublimates, and blends their color, while crafting a movement and suppleness to the jewel itself.
The Contemporary Heritage chapter is Pomellato’s idiosyncratic interpretation of the history of Milan and in particular the medieval Milanese monument, Castello Sforzesco. Inspired by a 1972 choker from the archives, Pomellato handcrafted 9 jewels that honored Pomellato’s design tradition and Milan’s most commanding monument.
Reinterpreting the original choker, Pomellato artisans crafted the Castello necklace with a bold neo-medieval look.
The magnificent Castello choker was constructed with rose-gold plaques, joined together by chunky diamond-set gourmette links.
The gourmette links were set by hand with more than 28 carats of baguette, princess and brilliant-cut diamonds.
The choker’s exceptional 5 reverse-set rubellites total more than 29 carats.
Pomellato artisans decided to use the unconventional ‘reverse setting’ for the Castello jewels’ hypnotic gemstones – sublimating their sharp angles – and recalling the rusticated stone masonry of the façade of the Castello. Pomellato has named this ingenious new type of pavé ‘bossage.’
With architectural inspiration, Pomellato uses gemstones with clearly defined edges and a raised central area to convey a feeling of power and invincibility.
Adding a further historic touch, and for an alternative look for the jewel, Pomellato adds a removeable rose-gold and diamond-set chain.
Pomellato sculpts two pairs of earrings to accompany this impressive necklace, with reverse-set tanzanite or rubellite central gemstones, each surrounded by hand-set diamonds.
With the same saturated tones and imposing reverse-set shapes, two rings complete the parure: one with an oval-faceted, nearly 19-carat rhodolite garnet, and the other with a more than 16-carat ‘sugarloaf diamond-cut’ tanzanite. Their contoured gold bezels are dusted with an irregular white-diamond pavé.
The Creativity on Stage chapter celebrates chains, as they have been at the heart of Pomellato's history. Intrinsically linked to the house's tradition of goldsmithing, Pomellato dares to push the boundaries with three luxurious chain necklaces that pay homage to the creativity of La Scala theatre.
Each necklace is composed of chains in re-imagined proportions, shimmering with diamonds assembled using new variations of setting techniques. The result is an irreverent and ironic take on the chain jewelry staple.
The showstopping, asymmetrical Lirica necklace is composed of swathes of links of varying sizes, falling like the swags of the curtains at La Scala. The largest link is set with diamonds in different cuts, arranged in a seemingly haphazard yet masterfully textured pattern.
The Terrazza Duomo jewels are a testament to Milan's design prowess. Deconstructing the Duomo’s ornate white marble façade, Pomellato echoes its key geometrical shapes to craft 4 elegantly simple earrings, 2 bracelets and a chocker. Extrapolating this masterpiece of 14th c. Gothic architecture into essential forms, Pomellato demonstrates the intellectual rigor and timeless nature of its design ethos.
To pair, Terrazza Duomo bracelets continue in the theme of abstraction with the same geometrical shapes inspired by the Duomo.
These forms are repeated in a plain gold frame from which rises a second tier of elements in a white diamond pavé.
The final piece in this exquisite collection is a rose gold choker – stark in its simplicity.
Carefully engineered to lie perfectly flush on the skin, its only adornment is an irregularly placed arrangement of fancy diamonds in a 'charivari' pattern pavé.
The Losange, Marquise, Drop and Trilliant earrings are light, airy, mobile sculptures in white or rose gold.
Swathed in white diamonds, the earrings gently sway with each movement of the body.
Distinctive and designed to make a statement, they can be worn solo or as a pair.
The symmetry of their geometrical composition contrasts with the clusters of diamonds that sit on the lobe.
Gracefully crafted and preciously set, these diamond sculptures demonstrate the mastery of Pomellato’s goldsmithing and gem-setting expertise.